Table of Contents
Across the Arctic Circle on the Ferry
Our journey along the Helgelandskysten eventually led us to the Kilboghamn – Jektvik ferry, which took us across the Arctic Circle. This crossing was special because the ferry was the only one with a dedicated room for dogs. Lina was well taken care of and didn’t have to stay in the car this time. The deck attendant was extremely friendly and escorted us to this room, making the crossing even more pleasant.
It was a wonderful feeling to experience this ferry ride with Lina on deck. The fresh sea breeze, the majestic mountains in the background, and the gentle swaying of the ferry all contributed to an unforgettable moment. Lina seemed to enjoy the crossing as much as we did, though being outside on deck made her a bit uneasy.
We continued our journey along the Helgelandskysten. The scenic route did not disappoint: Along the way, we again encountered beautiful rest areas, impressive art installations, and imposing tidal currents that made the landscape appear even more spectacular. Every stop along the route offered new discoveries and beautiful views that continually amazed us.
The Helgelandskysten was undoubtedly a very beautiful and rewarding route. The combination of nature, art, and the feeling of traveling with our camper and Lina made this leg of our journey a special experience that we won’t soon forget.
Thoughts on the Ferries Along the Helgelandskysten
Ah, the ferries along the Helgelandskysten—they operate like a well-oiled machine, albeit one with a few too many fans. After the first few crossings, I quickly realized that these floating bottlenecks are the real adventure. With their “high” frequency of just a few trips a day, they promise long lines and wait times that test even the most relaxed camper’s patience.
Particularly unforgettable are the evenings when the ferry finally docks, and an army of campers sets off in search of a sleeping spot. It feels like we’re all on a treasure hunt for the last parking spot—only without a treasure map.
Then there’s the legendary ferry connection between Andenes and Gryllefjord, which links two scenic routes. Truly a paradise of overcrowding. Rumor has it the wait times there are so lengthy that you end up befriending fellow waiters and forming a new camping community. That’s why I decided to skip this particular “fun.”
Despite all the hustle, the ferries offer some lovely moments. The crossings, with their impressive views and the feeling of embarking on a true adventure, somewhat compensate for the (self-inflicted) stress. At the end of the day, the ferries are an indispensable part of the Helgelandskysten experience—orderly, popular, and somehow charming. With a bit of humor and a large dose of patience, the journey can still be thoroughly enjoyed.
Flexibility in Travel: From Skutvik to Svolvær (Instead of from Bodø) to the Lofoten
Instead of traveling to the Lofoten from Bodø, I chose the alternative summer route from Skutvik to Svolvær. Sure, it meant a bit more driving, but it was worth it to avoid the ferry stress (or lack thereof).
The last stretch of road to Skutvik was a true feast for the eyes. And as if nature wanted to give us an extra bonus, a stately elk with an impressive set of antlers crossed our path. A true VIP appearance in the animal kingdom!
We arrived in Skutvik just in time for the ferry. The ferry runs only twice a day, and we caught the 11:35 am departure. And we even had a spot on it! Another wonderful stroke of luck.
The ferry crossing to Svolvær took a good two hours. Lina had to stay in the car again, but she was able to get some sleep in the bed during those two hours. Meanwhile, I enjoyed the crossing, which felt like a mini-cruise—with the wind in my hair and the Lofoten in sight.
Arriving in Svolvær was like a déjà vu of the best kind. I’ve been here twice before, and it felt like reuniting with an old friend. The cozy houses, the Svolværgeita (the climbing rock I climbed in 2018), and the unique atmosphere of the Lofoten welcomed us, whispering softly, “Welcome back, adventurer!”
Thus begins our new chapter in the Lofoten—with a bit more driving, fitting coincidences, and many wonderful moments just waiting to be experienced.
Hiking in the Lofoten: Haukland Beach and More
We finally arrived in the Lofoten and settled at the picturesque Haukland Beach. In the evening, the desire to hike took hold of us, and we climbed Mannen. The trail description promised 30 minutes—but in reality, it took an hour, and the upper part was quite challenging. Without much gear or provisions, we conquered the ascent and were rewarded with a breathtaking view.
Back at the parking area, which also serves as an overnight spot, we realized we weren’t the only adventurers. Many campers and tents shared the space. An internet search had revealed that on the Lofoten, making reservations is rather uncommon—the key is simply to arrive in good time.
The Dragon’s Eye
This morning, we had a lovely hike planned to Uttakleiv Beach. There’s a rock formation there called the Dragon’s Eye that I was eager to see—and I found it!
The beach itself, though famous, was less impressive to me and functioned as a sheep pasture, which made Lina nervous. We much preferred Haukland Beach with its fine sand.
Shopping and Camping Spot Search
After a necessary shopping trip, I decided to head to Lofoten Beach Camp. Reservations? Not a chance. It’s first come, first served—which always makes me feel a bit pressured. Fortunately, by midday, we still found plenty of space. Here, I plan to do some laundry and finally take a proper shower again.
On our journey so far, I’ve actually seen very few campsites, mostly cabins and hotels. Many campers seem to park freely in pull-offs. Thus, our adventure continues—full of spontaneous decisions, spectacular views, and new discoveries.
Thoughtful Reflections: As a Foreign Camper on Norway’s Roads
I still feel that as a foreign camper on Norway’s roads, there’s a bit of pressure sometimes. Whether I’m driving the speed limit or not, there always seems to be some pressure from behind. And it’s not just foreigners; many Norwegians are also traveling with large campers. Perhaps it’s simply that (too?) many travelers from around the world want to enjoy these beautiful landscapes.
It might be that the locals feel their familiar places and peace are being taken away by the influx of tourists. I know this feeling all too well. At home in Switzerland, I probably feel the same. When traveling there, and as a Swiss native, I can’t find a place because everything is full of tourists, I also feel a bit pressured.
It seems human to feel uncomfortable when we sense our familiar spaces shrinking. But at the same time, it reminds me how valuable and sought-after these places are. Norway is an incredibly hospitable country, and the people here are warm and open. This feeling of being pressured, of competing for space and resources—it’s universal and not a matter of nationality.
As I drive through these breathtaking landscapes, I realize we are all part of a larger whole. A puzzle in which each of us must find our place without feeling like we are taking it from others. It’s a balancing act between hospitality and consideration—and I’m grateful to be here and to have these experiences.
Personal Impressions and Thoughts
Note: These are all my personal impressions and viewpoints and do not claim to be correct. Everyone experiences the Lofoten in their own way—and that’s the beauty of it.